
It all began at the Whaling Museum in New Bedford – but oddly enough, it was less about whaling than about something else – typical for me.
When I was a young boy – before my teenage years – my grandfather often took my cousin and I to visit the Whaling Museum in New Bedford occasionally on a grey wintry Saturday when there was not much else to do and the weather was not conducive to outdoor activity. It is not a long trip to New Bedford from where we lived in the East Bay area of Rhode Island – maybe a half-hour at best – but it seemed much longer then. We boys rode in Grandpa’s old Studebaker and took turns packing his corncob pipe with fresh tobacco. Grandpa had been a boatbuilder before his retirement, among other things, and he was full of the lore of the sea and never missed an opportunity to share it, and the history that he knew, with his young charges. I loved these trips to the museum, because it was, and still is, a very special place, full of bones, blocks, baleen, and musty old marvels too numerous and remarkable to list here.
The Whaling Museum was, and still is, owned and operated by the Old Dartmouth Historical Society, which, in addition to the magnificent centerpiece that is the museum, also had an interest in preserving the history of that delightful little corner of southeastern Massachusetts that includes New Bedford, Westport, and some of the surrounding area, and thus the museum had, in some small part, exhibits relating thereto. But whaling and everything to do with whaling has always been 99-percent of the museum’s offering. There seemed to be little else having to do with the rest of Old Dartmouth and its environs, which puzzled me.
Yet oddly enough, my favorite exhibit at the museum, one that was very easy to overlook, had nothing to do with whaling per se. It was a small room that re-created a 17th Century primitive household in what would presumably have been Old Dartmouth in the time of the earliest settlers. It was off in the eastern part of the museum building, a doorway off a hallway, not labeled if I recall, easy to miss, and might have been taken for a broom-closet except that it was not at the end of a hall, and the door was open. It was, in appearance, a dark room, small, lined with brown, rough-hewn beams and bare wooden walls, wide-plank floors and sparse furnishings. There was a big faux field-stone fireplace at one end of it, with a make-believe fire roaring in the hearth, little red coals and gold flames cleverly recreated with lights and technique such that it looked real, so real that I could swear that I felt the warmth from that primitive hearth when I stood in the room.
Of course, you could not actually go into the exhibit room and touch anything; a small square area inside the doorway was roped off, only enough room to stand and observe. I wanted to go over to the hearth and lie down next to the fire; it seemed like such a cozy, other-worldly place, a window into the past, a place to rest in snug comfort while, I imagined, the sharply-biting cold and sleet of the New-England winter lashed the outside of the crude dwelling and massive mortared grey stone chimney, and the forest primeval, populated by bears and hostile, skulking Indians, encircled it. Indeed, there was a little recording, I think, of wind – howling wind, as one would hear through the chimney-flue – playing over and over again in the background, adding to the ambience of the little place. Although I was young, I clearly understood the message behind it; it was a statement about the tough life that our forebears faced in the primitive land that was 17th Century New England. It spoke of their privations, hardscrabble life, and precarious existence, but also showed that there was yet comfort to be found in home and hearth.
The exhibit remained for many years – I have no idea how long, twenty, maybe thirty years; and as I grew older, and visited the museum less frequently, I nevertheless always made it a point to stick my head into that little doorway, and I had to smile. There was something unchanging and comfortable about it; the same vision, the same room, nothing unmoved; and why not? History is written; it recedes into the past, but it does not change. Facts, as John Adams pointed out, are immutable. The message too is unchanging. In a world where nothing seems sacred anymore, nothing seems stable or noble, everything is in flux, where uncertainty reigns and old values have been turned on their heads, this little room, in later years, offered me a connection to my youth, to the values that a young bright-eyed boy learned and embraced and had reverence for, once upon a time. I hoped that it would always be there.
Time passes all too quickly. The first streaks of gray in the once-boy’s hair have spread like mushrooms on a log to a pepper-and-salt beard with more salt than pepper. I went back to the museum a few years ago and to my dismay found the old room walled off, with a note saying that the exhibit area was being remodeled, and soon would offer a new display of some sort. My heart sank; if the ‘interpretations’ in the rest of the museum are any indicator of direction (and this is true of so many museums nowadays), the new display will be, or is, not about Old Dartmouth, not even about whales, but is quite probably configured as another tiresome paean to “celebrating ethnic diversity” or such, as if we don’t have enough of that theme being force-fed to us everywhere we turn nowadays. Is there some point in time when we can collectively get a point across to the politically-correct zealots that we do get the message? That we’re OK with it? That perhaps it’s time to move on and recover a broader and more inclusive view of history, one that once again includes our early local forebears? Perhaps not; the early settlers have too many things going against them, demerit check offs in the enlightened postmodern culture classroom. They were white Europeans; a good many of them males, at that; they were religious; and they even (and unfortunately) shot at Indians occasionally. They often did not pay their help – or themselves – a ‘living wage’, and did not practice ‘fair trade’. Still, that’s enough right there in modern revisionist culture to deny them any creditable place in history, even the place that they heretofore occupied as the founders of the country that we live in at present.
These days I hike the woodland trails of a large preserve in Tiverton, Rhode Island, fairly adjacent to the Massachusetts border and that whole area of Southeastern Massachusetts that contains Westport and Dartmouth. I hike during the cold months of the year, when there are few people to meet on the trails. I hike nearly every day that time permits, sometimes when a lovely dusting of snow has decorated the quiet landscape and my boots crunch with every step. Sometimes I go when the wind is blustering and roars in the bare upper tree branches, and other times yet when the weak winter sun shines golden in the late afternoon on the bright tan beech-leaf carpet of the forest floor and the green Boston ferns that hang from the rocky ledges and will not wilt and curl until they feel the deepest bite of January’s freeze.
I hike several miles of trails that include the old Eight Rod Way, an uncompleted road from the 17th Century that had once been planned to run to Plymouth. It is still, in places, paved with the small round cobbles that local farmers painstakingly gathered from their fields to deposit by the wagon-load yard by yard over decades. Areas of exposed ledge are worn and rutted from wagon wheels. This area was settled back in the early days, by subsistence farmers and pioneers. It is a haunted place and their voices whisper from the old cellar-holes that dot the landscape, foundations often hidden behind groves of lovely green mountain laurel, a shrub that remains green year ‘round, even when its upper branches are laden with snow and ice.
Little babbling Borden Brook, dark as English tea from the tannins leaching out of the Ice Age-era remnant cedar swamp from whence it originates in underground springs, murmurs its way through the woods. It flows under heavy stone slab bridges put in place by rough hands three centuries ago. The brook tumbles on happily beneath the jumbled collapsed stones of the raceway of the old Borden sawmill, its foundation and corbelled arch stone bridge still sound since the mill sawed trees into planks for Tiverton village houses in the 18th Century. There may be burials out here; perhaps, deep beneath the soft blanket of oak leaves, tangled brown roots and humus are the bones of Indians who never saw a European face; perhaps there are graves of slaves, or of the very poor, or of the early settlers’ children, for their mortality was very high.
I pause at the cellar hole of one man’s home, and this one has a name, in the guidebooks – Scipio Cook. I do not know who Scipio Cook, with his classical Roman first name, was, although there must be someplace where I can learn more about him. A little family of chipmunks darts in and out around the mortarless stones of his old foundation, all traces of wood or timber long gone. But I found Scipio’s little dug well one day, and the remains of his small garden – for herbs and vegetables, probably turnips and onions for his stew-pot – can still be outlined, for the vegetation is different there.
Further up the trail, there lies a group of stone-lined cellar holes that is most intriguing, for this was a small, closely situated community or farm with intersecting stone walls. The cellar walls are bulged in, looking as though they are ready to collapse, although they have looked that way, most probably, for more than a century. But these cellar holes, dating from the First Period, perhaps, are the same size as would fit the little re-created room that used to be in the museum. These were small houses, very small, very simple. Many has been the cold day’s hike that I wished, with the rustle of sleet in the upper tree-branches and little crystals speckling my hat and shoulders, that I could walk inside, warm myself by the fire, and have a bowl of stew, perhaps, or tea, at least haven and shelter, brief respite, from the weather, sharing a few moments with these early, hardy people.
There is a new neighborhood development nearby, cutting deeply into the Tiverton woods. Although this preserved place will, by deed, always be protected from the incursion of that development, in the nakedness of winter that plat of vinyl-sided plastic box-houses can occasionally be glimpsed through the woods, their treeless lots and loam-less lawns re-seeded desperately trying to grow grass before the rains gully them. But some of the boxes have fireplaces, though not built with stone or brick chimneys but siding-covered ones with tin caps. Burning seasoned hardwood produces the same aromatic incense no matter what it is burned in, however, and occasionally, as I pass these foundations on a day when the gray sky is lowering and threatening snow, I will catch a whiff of that burning wood, and it will overwhelm my senses. Even though that anonymous early home is no longer here, I can smell the aroma of its hearth on the cold air.
At such times, I will pause at the edge of a cellar hole, whose nameless inhabitants long ago passed to dust, and will whisper a brief prayer for them, to let them know that in the stillness of the woods, decades and even centuries after their hard lives have ended, in a small piece of land that in many ways has begun to resemble once more the world that they lived in, someone remembers them, cherishes the memory of who they were and how they lived, and what they sought to do in carving a settlement out of a howling and unforgiving wilderness. Despite their sufferings and losses, Puritan father William Bradford observed and wrote, “They knew they were pilgrims, and looked not much on those things, but lifted up their eyes to the heavens, their dearest country, and quieted their spirits."
They are remembered now by someone not confused or distracted by the myopic fad-currents of the moment, who does not judge them by today’s political cause-driven standards. History, after all, cannot be changed or erased, though many have tried to do both for selfish ends and private agendas. The glass that looks backward can at times be obscured deliberately, ignored, or trivialized; but I stand at the stone doorstep of a yawning hole filled with stumps and leaves, and listen for the whispering voices of the family that once lived there and the wind howling in the flue. It is there, they were there, and always will be for the patient listener with an open and uncluttered mind. Listen not with the ears, but with the heart, and you too will hear them, calling out to be remembered.